Second day solo

Under way at 05:45, doing 6knots SOG and hoping to reach Valletta by 19:30 just before dark. At the cape marking the end of Sicily the wind rose to over 22kts apparent so I reefed to reef 2 (reef 1 block blew out on the way to Sicily), this worked very well and am getting consistent 7-8kts SOG. Steady run through the day, passed very close to a tanker stopped in 250 metres washing out its tanks, also got very close to a colourful Norweigan cruise liner.

Arrived in Malta at 17:20 after very good run. Initially I was very confused as I couldn't find the customs dock but it seems they have now changed the entry procedure so you just go to a marina and they handle your clearance. I found this out after phoning Grand harbour marina who also happened to have a space and be able to help me moor up. There are two bays in here and Grand harbour is the other one so by the time I eventually got in and moored I was exhausted. The skippers either side of me were delivery guys and assumed I was also as I was alone so took me to a local pub for dinner (I was quite pleased as I obviously didn't look like an amateur when manouvering and tying up). Dinner was very cheap, chicken and chips with 3 beers for 7.5EU. So tired I didn't wash the boat but in the night heavy rain (the first I'd seen since England) cleaned of the salt for me.

All alone

I got help from a couple of Brits to move to the fuel dock but as there was no wind didn't really need it. Took on 415 litres in Tank and cans - nb. will need more cans for the ARC.
Slow sailing today and eventually took down sails with headwind. Saw two dolphins. At 18:30 decided to find anchorage and stop for the night because making less than 4 knots into swell under power. Anchored at Ogina, very quiet spot except for small fishing boats passing on their way in and out. Prepacked Lasagna with a salad and a beer for dinner, early bed.

Ready for my first solo

Today I bought 40 metres of light rope to use as additonal safety line around the boat. With the existing Jackstays I can't clip on anywhere other than in the cockpit or from the cockpit forward to the mast. Because I will be sailing from Sicily to Malta on my own and I may get some rough conditions I decided not to take any chances and created a sort of spiderweb arrangement that allows me to clip on anywhere from the bowsprit to the bimini. However, I am hoping that no-one notices it and I will unrig it as soon as I arrive.

I also bought a new outboard fuel tank (the previous replacement purchased in Kalamata just two weeks ago cracked and the fuel leaked out) and provisions for three days.

I replaced the raw water impellor in the generator. It had done 500 hours but still looked perfect and felt flexible. Given how fast the first one had failed it looks as though these do better with constant use than they do sitting around for months at a time.

I had hoped to fuel up and leave today but be the time I finished everything it was too late for the fuel dock. A group of nice Brits from the next boat have offered to give me a bit of help getting over to the fuel dock in the morning and I am hoping I will be OK on my own from there.

I had a fantastic meal tonight at a backstreet Sicilian restaurant. We'd eaten here when we first arrived and they were very helpful with a quick tomato pasta for the kids but it was obvious they were capable of much better. I asked the owner/chef to just give me whatever he recommended and this turned out to be a good decision.

The antipasti mare came in a three segment dish, the first containing a salad of tiny pieces of marinated Octopus with Rocket and a lemon juice dressing. The second containing a small deepfried fish that had been completely deboned and stuffed (my Italian is not up to finding out what with), and the final one contained a delicately flavoured pickled fish fillet with an onion marmalade. I suspect this tasted better than it sounds, it also looked wonderful.
After this I had spaghetti with a spicy fresh tuna sauce. The pasta had a fantastic texture and the sauce was delicious.

Alex and Jamie Optimists

Kalamata marina

The Chapmans left today.

Ancient Messene

Plytra-Caves of Diros

We followed the red arrows round overnight. My watch started just before the Cape and ended about 6 miles from the Pirgos Diros. It was extraordinary.

As we rounded the Cape, it was pitch dark -- except for the lights of a village to our right and the lights of a couple of ships to the left. Although I knew, for a fact, that we were not headed straight for land in between these lights, I would have sworn we were. The lights of the ships just weren't obviously ships -- although the radar and the AIS told me they were.

As we hit the third arrow, the land to my right was practically uninhabited and there were no comforting lights at all -- just formless black. Just under the third arrow is a rock sticking up out of the sea -- not identified by a lighthouse. The rock was visible on the radar, but I couldn't actually see it at all -- there was no moonlight. So my heart was in my mouth all the time we were near it. Finally as I was checking the lights of two ships sailing in opposite directions on the horizon, they both suddenly disappeared from view -- they had gone behind the completely invisible rock ... and once I'd recovered from the shock of disappearing tankers, I had a "visual" fix.

Technology is wonderful but there's nothing like the evidence of your own eyes.

The rest of the night and dawn was uneventful. I handed over about 6 miles from the caves and went to get some sleep.