Serifos-Naxos

While investigating possible ferries to Aegina, Bruce and Justine found they had to leave a day earlier than expected. So after a quick trip up to the Chora, a spot of fishing with nets in the harbour and lunch, we said good bye and they rushed for the ferry. Which left us to plan what to do next…

Jamie’s recent 10th birthday meant she was eligible to do her Junior Open Water Diver’s course. After ringing round a couple of PADI centres, the choice was Paros or Naxos both of which were a good 8 plus sailing hours away, so the rest of Saturday was given over to cleaning, swabbing and provisioning and Sunday was another early start.

An impressive “Portara” on a promontory welcomes visitors to Naxos town. It’s the remnants of an unfinished temple that was plundered by the Venetians to build the magnificent fort and surrounding town.

We arrived early afternoon, moored (and discovered the limitations of our gangplank – short, no guide rail due to it being a piece of decking) and went exploring.

The Chora: Serifos

We hadn’t been able to get a spot on the quay and had to anchor, and had another tense night.

In the morning it was a priority to wait for a space to open up on the quay so we could rest. Unfortunately with a catamaran, you need 2 spaces -- preferably together. So Bruce and I hovered like hungry vultures in the dinghy with a radio waiting for signs of movement. Finally we moored – water, electricity, waste disposal – all the basic needs plus wireless internet!

We decided to stay put for the night and had a lazy day on the beach aiming to climb up to the Chora when it had cooled a little. A harbour/port connected to a main town up a hill is a common configuration in the Cyclades and this was a particularly pretty version. White washed walls, bright blue doors and shutters, brilliant pink flowers – picture postcard perfect.

The climb up to the Chora was punishing – but Alex skipped up the steps like a goat and the views are spectacular and worth every muscle twinge. Once we got up to the town itself, the streets were narrow (no room for cars), paved with large stones and truly labyrinthine. It would have been extremely easy (and delightful) to lose your way in the maze. We opted for a nice restaurant (with incredible desserts and view) who could direct us back to the road and a taxi back down.

Pictures: Approaching Serifos Chora, Beginning the walk up to the Chora above, The Chora's narrow streets.

Kea and Kithnos -- 22-24/07

Kea was an unprepossessing town – but it had a beach and a fuel tanker , so it fulfilled our immediate needs. My strongest memory is the nifty way the enormous passenger ferry managed to do a “hand-brake turn” onto the dock…

We next made landfall at Agios Stephanos in Kithnos – a beautiful swimming bay, but poor holding for our anchor.

Jamie and Chris met an Italian family with young daughters and they immediately got on like a house on fire and arranged to meet for swimming fun the next day.

During the night, although our anchor was holding other boats in the bay were suffering. The Italians after fighting for some time, had moved to another bay but came back in the morning to meet up.

We spent the morning on the beach, Bruce towed the kids around in the rubber ring behind the dinghy. Much fun was had jumping and diving off the boat and lunching with the Italian family.

In the afternoon it was off to Serifos – hopefully to moor rather than anchor.

Pictures: Looking out of the bay at Kithnos, Jamie's good friends.

Poseidon’s Temple: Cape Sounion – Kea

Eating breakfast below the Temple of Poseidon has to be a “thing to do before you die”.

As soon as we could persuade the children, we dinghied to shore and began the long climb up the hill to the temple. Jamie H and Jordan were first to arrive at the top, I trailled in last...

Thirty years ago, when Chris and I visited the Parthenon, we could scramble over most of the ruins and you could really see and imagine and wonder. Now, sites like Poseidon’s temple are roped off and the only perspective is as an outsider looking in. That said, the view from outside was magnificent – it’s truly awe-inspiring that magnificent, beautiful columns like these were built on the top of a hill without advanced technology. We did look for, but couldn’t find, Byron’s graffiti – shame!

After lunch and a swim off the boat, we set sail for Kea – our first Cycladian island.




Pictures: Breakfast under the Temple of Poseidon (click on it to actually see the temple!), The Temple (with us for scale), Hakuna Matata from the Temple (the catamaran).

Picking up the Porters: Aegina – Athens -- Cape Sounion

An early start to Zea Marina in Athens to pick up Alex’s friend, Jordan, and his family. We sailed south towards Cape Sounion, stopping on the way at a beach called Navadia for a swim and lunch. Very idyllic.

We aimed to get to Cape Sounion for sunset over the Temple of Poseidon and only just made it. Anchoring proved more challenging than usual and it was extremely dark before we’d finished.

The Canal: Galaxidhi to Aegina

The next push was an overnight crossing to position us at the entrance to the Corinth Canal at 7 am (first real light). We left Galaxidhi at around 11pm, still taking advantage of a bright moon to navigate the gulf, and arrived at the canal at 6am so we watched the sunrise and radioed for passage at first light. Ships go in convoy each way through the canal and you have to wait for your turn along with ships of all shapes and sizes. We followed a huge cargo ship through and while we were docked at the other end, had an enormous tanker pass us by in the opposite direction – causing momentary panic until we realized he wasn’t under his own engines so wasn’t going to pulverize us with his wash. The journey through the canal was about 30 minutes and caused us to “breath in” from time to time.

The sea area on the east side of the canal is extremely busy with vast tankers, cargo ships and ferries. We made for Aegina, an island about 2 hours run from Athens where we were to meet the Porter family. It’s a noisy mooring – directly on the main road along the harbour front. On the positive side, it was about 10 metres to the nearest Mythos or milkshake and it had water and electricity – heaven.

Pictures: Moonset and Chris over Corinth, Sunrise over Corinth, Through the canal

Delphi – Museum and Ice-cream Cakes

Delphi has an excellent (and air-conditioned) museum which actually went down very well with Alex and Jamie. Because we were cooler and in no danger of 3rd degree sunburn, we could really look at the friezes and statues, and talk about the stories of the Greek heroes which we’d been reading about.

But what will probably stick in the kids’ minds about our Delphi Day is the incredible ice-cream cake that doubled as a belated birthday cake for Jamie. These cakes are fantastic works of art – and extremely tasty too.

Delphi - Hot Site

Did it match our expectations? Well it matched the kids' -- they profess to hate our "ruins" because they are hot and hard work. It is a wonderful site -- a shimmering sheer mountain vista and ruins that speak of a more aesthetic era.

BUT

It was filled with tourists -- like us. Although you could imagine that this was once a spiritual centre, and probably would regain some of that spirit once the site was closed, it was hard to feel any hint of the essence of the Delphic oracle.

AND

It was hot, hot, hot and steep. Jamie wrote in her journal that you could "practically taste the heat". A spring half way to the stadium at the top of the site was a great relief. The kids had great fun filling their hats with water and getting soaked and managed to find a new lease of life.

(Click on the Delphi slideshow for pics)

Serifos-Naxos

While investigating possible ferries to Aegina, Bruce and Justine found they had to leave a day earlier than expected. So after a quick trip up to the Chora, a spot of fishing with nets in the harbour and lunch, we said good bye and they rushed for the ferry. Which left us to plan what to do next…

Jamie’s recent 10th birthday meant she was eligible to do her Junior Open Water Diver’s course. After ringing round a couple of PADI centres, the choice was Paros or Naxos both of which were a good 8 plus sailing hours away, so the rest of Saturday was given over to cleaning Sunday was another early start.

An impressive “Portara” on a promontory welcomes visitors to Naxos town. It’s the remnants of an unfinished temple that was plundered by the Venetians to build the magnificent fort and surrounding town.
We arrived early afternoon, moored (and discovered the limitations of our gangplank – short, no guide rail due to it being a piece of decking) and went exploring.

Sailing through the night: Cephalonia to Galaxidhi 18/07/08

Our next destination was the best port for visiting Delphi – a place Chris and I had wanted to see for 30 years. To get there involved my first overnight sailing and experience of “watches”. The moon was now full, so it was never truly dark across the entrance to the Gulf of Corinth. Chris and I did the first shift together so I understood what was involved. From 4 in the morning, I was on my own. It was an uneventful watch except for an inadvertent incursion into a naval restricted zone which had me glancing over my shoulder for the rest of the morning.

We passed under the new mile long Rhion-Antirhion bridge and into the gulf of Corinth just behind another catamaran, Lady Soul, at lunchtime. Alex did some much needed “swab jobs”! He takes his responsibilities very seriously! We moored smoothly in Galaxidhi mid afternoon.

Sailing in the dark: Paxos to Cephalonia

We actually weighed anchor at 5am. It was still dark, but the full moon and brilliant stars lit the sea. This was the first time I saw dawn and the sun rise. The journey was over 50 miles and we arrived in the early afternoon and moored in a bay near Fiskardo. This was our first experience with Greek wasps… We did explore a small cave and the shoreline with the dinghy, but settled on snorkeling from the beach.

We finally set sail: Corfu to Paxos

Spotting a window in the weather, we finally set sail on Wednesday and did a short hop to Paxos. The wind was high and the sea was rough and confused, and it was quite a baptism for the kids and I.

We anchored at Paxos town that evening and took the dinghy into the town. It was an idyllic spot, but we only had time to eat, explore the town and buy a few souvenirs. We were up at 4:30am setting sail for Cephalonia.

Pictures: Alex steering, Jamie in front of Corfu Town, Jamie and Alex speeding into Paxos

The Family Join the Boat in Corfu: 12-15/07/2008

After a few delays, the family joined the boat in Corfu and we spent the first couple of days organizing ourselves (see Alex getting organized, right) and getting a few repairs done at Gouvia Marina. It was so hot and bright after the drizzle of the UK.

While the boat was being repaired, we explored the surrounding villages, tavernas and, of course, supermarket. On the 15th, we celebrated Jamie's 10th birthday with presents and an improvised "Brownie" cake.

We briefly went to Corfu town which Chris and I had first visited 30 years ago – some parts of the town were familiar including the cricket pitch and the docks, but inevitably there were more tourists and more touristy shops. We found a great ice cream shop -- a rival to the legendary ice cream mecca of Nafplion.

We had arranged to meet Alex’s friend Jordan and his family in Athens on the following Monday. But, by the time we were ready to start the journey to Athens, the weather was against us (Blowing force 7-8). We decided to stay another day which meant we had to do the 200+ miles in just 5 days. Given my lack of experience, this was a bit daunting, but pleased the children because a postponed visit to Aquaworld was reinstated.

Video - Monster crane in Gouvia.

Last passage - log miles 134 and 129

Friday Hot day today but at least some wind we can use as we start our last long passage before getting to Corfu. Tomorrow I get to see Kim and the kids which I am really looking forward to. Fitted the front (sunbathing) cushion clips and cleaned my cabin.

Saturday arrived in Gouvia an hour later from Kim's perspective than we were saying as we had forgotten to alter the ships clock forward to Greek time. After a long day travelling and many hours waiting in a marina restaurant she and the kids were very tired and not at their happiest.

Picture night approach to Corfu with castle in silhouette.

The blog from here until the family leave for England is being written by Kim.

The original volcano - log miles 117

During the morning we passed the volcanic islands North of Sicily; Vulcano, Lipari and Salina. Known as the "Three older sisters" these can easily be recognised as volcanos and of course the name comes from Vulcano (see picture).
Through the day we were passed by several very fast (35kt+) ferries.
Went through the Messina straits at 8pm, one tide sooner than we expected. These are an amazing and exciting place to sail. We rocketed through with the current despite our slow speed through the water you can see from the plotter we were doing 8.1kts over the ground.

In the straits you have to play a lot of "dodge the fast car ferry" see video.


The famous whirlpools weren't active (Chyla and Charybdis) because we passed one at slack water and the other has been reduced or stopped by the building of a harbour wall.

As we neared the end of the straits we could see red hot lava running down Mount Etna. We were able to see this until we were around 60 miles away.

Sicilly in sight - log miles 116

I'm on galley duty today and did bacon and eggs for lucnch and a poor man's casoulet (Baked bean, Tomato and sausage casserole with a layer of sliced Apples baked on top - last fresh fruit). Cleaned bathroom, took noon sight, worked on planned itinerary and did some emails.

On 9-midnight listening to Queen live album on iPod, passed by huge Maersk cargo ship (length shown on AIS in nm). Despite the slow pace (dead into wind and low power because of 2 blown charger modules) we ended the day with the North coast of Sicily in sight.

Timely fuel stop - log miles 115

Interesting dawn watch as the lights and then the coast of Sardinia came into view. Fueled at Perdi Sali with just 10 litres left of our 460 on board. Pretty here but not so much as a cafe or shop to get breakfast and we are starting to run short of everything. We will just have to make the best of what we have now the rest of the way to Corfu.

Time for a swim - log miles 114

To relieve the tedium of this slow passage we all had a very refreshing dip in the sea - tied on (most of the time) behind the boat. Pizza lunch, Sweet and Sour pork dinner. Lots of time for reading and contemplation.

Still slow - log miles 95

Today and yesterday our run miles were greater than our log. So we actualy covered 105 miles due to a slight favourable current. Anyway, not much help getting to Corfu before Kim.

Me on galley today, sausage sandwiches fo rlunch and Fusili Bolognese for dinner. Seems the slower we go the more we eat.

Had a movie night tonight "Bourne Identity".

Slow, Slow, Slow - log miles 100

Three knots into wind, THREE! The wind should change tomorrow so today was rest, reading and eating. We had a full English breakfast (as lunch) and steak and chips for dinner. Bit of work on my celestial navigation today, made a couple of new playlists on my iPod and rated some of my new music.

8pm waves decreasing so should make better progress tonight. We have what Jay calls a tripple F weather horizon (Flat Field of F all) so not much help.

Our average to noon today 4.17 knots.

Electric shock! - log miles 120

One of our chargers has failed or more precisely 2 modules in one charger. Motoring we can now only make 4 knots. Ancasta are arranging for a new charger to be sent to meet me in Malta but for now we have a long way to go with the wind coming from directly eastwards (in our face) and not a lot of power.

My hat blew into the water and two dolphins turned up to play with it until we rescued it with a boat hook.

Kim has moved her flight to the 12th. Let's hope we are there by then.

Pleasant sailing - log miles 134

An early fuel stop in Almerimar then a pleasant days gentle sailing and trying to build up my tan.

Dolphins for Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner - log miles 93

Actualy we had breakfast in Soto Grande where we were waiting to meet the Onan agent Ricardo to pick up worlds most expensive spare impellor. The new autopilot seals failed to arrive so I have had them sent to the UK for Kim to bring to Corfu with her. At the moment it is holding up OK and we have spare ATF to top up if required.

During the night last night I took us between Gibraltar and the north coast of Africa which was a very cool experience then had dolphins turn up when it got light. The water here is crystal clear which is fantastic for dolphin watching.